good morning. 6:30am and the waves came up overnight. north shore looks 4-6′ but the swell kind of looks straight. or more out of the north. we’ll just have to see if the pipe masters are on. it might be the backdoor masters if it’s on today because backdoor is looking good. got some dark clouds over the island but should clear up. south winds on the way so epic conditions on the north shore all week. what a great north shore winter for waves so far. better enjoy it while you can because it can turn shitty for 2 months straight. remember last year? well, have a nice day….
walking through a little remote island in the maldives a couple of years ago was an experience. the people there were so shy compared to other countries. they kind of kept to themselves. but the thing i remember the most were the smiles. happy smiles. we couldn’t communicate through words but their smiles were enough to make you feel warm and welcomed….
gosh, i still can’t get over the simple lifestyle there. they don’t need the materialistic things, all they need is each other….
wanted to say hello to miura-san and the locals over there in toyama. sorry i couldn’t make it there this year but i’m still thinking about our awesome memories last time. memories that i’ll never forget, and keep secret… mahalo…
i met this little cutie last time in okinawa. and i’m glad she won the stickers in the presents section of go-naminori. if you get a chance, try your luck. if you don’t go, you don’t know… click here for G0-NAMINORI PRESENTS….
