i was up at 3am when i got my first text, “going to be good at the secret spot today.!” it took an hour to get there, but i still arrived in the dark and waited on the beach until i could see the rocks that i had to paddle out through. while i was waiting, i saw the brightest falling star ever! i made a wish, and hope it comes true…
i was the first one out so it felt good being in the huge ocean all alone. then a couple of the boys paddled out and we had an amazing session. it was glassy, calm, and as beautiful as it gets. here is one of the early morning crew Ross loving life…
when i see older guys than me still enjoying the ocean to the fullest, it reassures me that i still have lots of time to enjoy. so yeah, i get inspired and happy…
as the sun started to creep up, i was just mesmerized…
and the waves were perfect! some waves were so good that i wish i had my shortboard! it felt like an Indonesia surf trip…
i took this photo before i caught my last wave. so i was out for 40 minutes, rode 5 endless waves, and rode the last one 500 meters to the beach. woke up at 3am, worked out, did yoga, saw a falling star, foiled, and was in by 7:30am. i was smiling all the way home…
