Day 19 of 2022: omg, did you see the red ring around the moon this morning? it was the first time in my life i seen something like that.
the red moon went away and the golden sun started to rise. we could barely see when we first got out in the ocean, but it didn’t matter.
and Daisuke-san was the very first guy flying this morning. i was paddling out cheering him on!
we got another surprise swell again. the waves were chest high and perfect. not too many people must have known because it was pretty empty.
gosh, i love this feeling…
then i went out again for Round 2 on the longboard. been teaching my students about style. i want everyone of them to not only surf good, but to look good too. and this looks good!
