The Third Wheel

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when ever i take someone surfing, i always keep an eye on him or her.  i know where they are the whole time and i can see everything no matter where i am in the ocean.  and if you know me well, i’m very protective of the people i surf with.  so if you drop in on them, i will drop in on you.  and if you wonder why i always drop in on you, it’s probably because your dropped in on one of my friends.  Tony Moniz taught me that one.  haha.  

yes, remember i’m always watching you no matter where i am.  and when i see you surf like this, i will scold you!  haha.

so happy to see Tomoka and Kimura-san looking so lovely in Japan.  i wish i was there!!!  miss you guys!  

Kimura-san and Atsuko-san took me to a very romantic place in Bali a few years ago.  they had their own room and i had my own room.   when i walked into my room after dinner and drinks and saw this, i got so mad that i threw the towels in the pool and ate the rose pedals.  that’s what loneliness does.  haha.   but even though i was by myself, it felt so romantic…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide