i really needed this trip. i needed it for my mind, body, and soul. and most importantly, for my surfing. i got motivated to surf again so i wanted to fine tune my equipment, and my style. Mike Woo’s been shaping for Kelly Slater so i grabbed one of his boards from his house. it’s only a 5’6 with 26 liters so i was hesitant at first. then when i caught my first wave, i couldn’t believe how good that board worked. super easy to paddle, very fast, and lots of flow. this one might be coming back to Hawaii with me. haha…
i never thought that twin fins were this fun. it changed my whole perspective on life. i wake up here at 4am, exercise, and patiently wait for the sun to come up so i can surf. it’s so exciting!!!
