No Turning Back

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when i woke up yesterday, the waves were small so i wanted to do something different.  grabbed a couple fishing poles, put ice in the cooler, and headed out to sea.

as i left dark and gloomy Oahu, i saw clear blue sky in the horizon so i didn’t stop.  i kept going, going, and going.  there was no turning back…

then i landed at one of my favorite beaches in the world.  like always, nobody around, white sandy beach, crystal blue water, and as beautiful as it gets.  this is my power spot!

then i cruised around looking for a nice place to meditate.  i pulled the boat up the beach, put on my slippers, and took a hike in the green mountains.  this place is so wild because it’s only accessible by boat i’ve never seen a single person here before.  i’m glad i didn’t get lost before it got dark because it gets pitch dark here.  towards the evening, i saw a mama goat with her two babies walking behind her.  then i heard the deer starting to snort and grunt.  birds chirping which was all music to my ears.   it was so peaceful so i couldn’t leave.  and i didn’t.

when you go into untouched nature, nature provides.  this was my dinner and i felt like melting after every bite.  it’s pretty unbelievable how one day away from Oahu can reset your mind, body, and soul.  i’m still in heaven…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide