the waves were still good this Sunday morning. smaller than yesterday but still fun if you caught the right ones. Barrack knows the right ones…
when i see someone doing an off the lip from behind the wave, i can see the power and flow just by watching the spray. this is power and flow…
Dean always finds the right ones too. always at the right place at the right time.
that little tiny van is what i would drive around in Shikoku for years. and that’s why i drive one around in Hawaii now. it brings back some of the best memories of my life. that were the good times…
