i tell people: if you haven’t foiled in a while, you should go slow and take it easy on your first wave back. just go extra slow so you can reconnect with your equipment and the ocean. so that’s exactly what i did on this first wave back. i went slow and reconnected. it felt smooth and great so i was looking forward to my next wave.
my next wave, forget about going slow. i went full throttle and thought i was Kai Lenny. then at the most unexpected time, i fell. not an ordinary fall either, it was a head over heals fall. i’m surprised my foil didn’t slice my throat. next time i don’t foil in a long time, i will be extremely careful on my first and second wave. it’s pretty funny because i always tell people to slow down and here i am trying to go faster. haha…
