i remember paddling out to Backdoor on some big days when it was even darker than this. most of the time i was the first one out, but sometimes i would see one single silhouette out surfing at Pipeline. we would cross paths in the lineup a few times and when it got lighted, we would look at each other and laugh. that one silhouette would always be Wade Tokoro. so surfing in the dark always brings back those golden memories…
there were still some big sets this morning. if you got caught inside, you would have to throw your board on the side and dive under. or if you’re lucky like this girl, you barely make it over.
i’ve been seeing some impressive surfing this swell. it’s the biggest day for this girl and she was taking off on her own. sometimes fail, and sometimes making it. but when you make it, it will make you smile all day long…
another lucky man sneaking over a huge set!
Takami-san and Toda-san bumped into Seth on the beach. pretty cool because they watched Seth grow up from a little baby to one of the best surfers in the world. it’s pretty cool!