Leo just turned 13 years old! so he went from a boy to a young man! i told him he’s a big boy now so you have to be able to surf on your own. he said ok and started paddling for this wave.
then he stands up and gives a shaka! haha. so much confidence. i love it!
i’m super happy for being able to create memories with these kids year after year. i can watch them grow into fine young adults. and our connection in the ocean is better than anything. all we do is laugh and enjoy the precious moment…
right when we came in, Seth Moniz came in from Bowls too. i took this photo because Leo had no idea who Seth is. i told him to go home and google Seth and he will find out. and maybe putting his hand around this famous world tour surfer will give him some inspiration. i hope so.
by the way, Seth surfed for the first time since his injury in Bali and he told me he feels good! and he looks good too! i was so happy to see him back in the ocean. get ready for J-Bay!!!!
