in every surfer, there is a specific day or event that makes you better. it literally happens overnight. sometimes you remember it, sometimes you don’t. but after a lot of thought, i just realized that most of my students became better surfers as soon as they figured out how to control their emotions. that’s exactly it! i see surfers put too much energy or emotions into their surfing and it’s actually holding them back. imagine being sacred or emotional when you’re working? can you function properly? no. imagine being scared or emotional when playing sports? can you function properly? of course not. so when will that day be when you overcome your fears and emotions? figure it out because that’s the day your surfing will get better instantly, and that’s the day your life will get better too. i see it first hand so it’s a proven fact…
everybody is different so it’s my job to be able to understand the different techniques to break that fear and emotion. in this girls case, it just took a couple 20′ face waves to break on her head, break her leash, and swim in at Bowls on a day nobody else wanted to be out. after that, there wasn’t just a newborn surfer, there was a newborn woman!
