this morning was really nice because there were only locals out at Bowls. everybody sharing waves but of course Jeannie Chesser always gets to choose first.
Jimmy surfing the Mentawai like conditions.
Pat’s been ripping! getting better with age, just like a bottle of fine wine…
round 2 was very interesting. my student wanted to surf Kaisers so we went to Kaisers. it was crowded with angry locals, but lots of blue barrels breaking over knee high deep water. i saw a couple guys getting yelled at but that’s how Kaisers is. love it or leave it…
Boot Camp starts again. from the airplane to the ocean. this man has a lot of passion!!!
