i think i’m getting spoiled surfing Bowls. the waves are just so perfect that it’s hard to make mistakes out there. every board i try works out there, and it’s just super easy to surf that wave.
so going out to Diamond Head Cliffs in the afternoon was interesting. first of all, all my friends out there was so happy to see me back on a short board. i guess they really hated foilers huh? haha. second, i use to surf Cliffs everyday for 10 years so i knew that wave so well. BUT, yesterday i was lost out there. i was in the wrong spot most of the time and had the wrong surfboard. it made me realize that i need a low rocker board with a wider tail. and of course, more practice on that type of wave. Bowls is perfect, Cliffs is challenging. and i like challenges so i’ll be surfing out there more often until i can surf it properly again…
the other day i saw a tourist dragging and pulling a brand new rental board over rocks. then yesterday i see these tourists carrying a broken board which they probably didn’t know was broken, then i saw him just throw his board down on the rocky beach. just seeing that made me cringe. anyway, i feel sorry for Dive Oahu because these boards will never be the same…
