surfing is all mental. i don’t care how good you are but if your mental isn’t strong, you will fail when you least expect it. maybe the best wave of your life is coming right to you, maybe it’s the last second of a contest, or maybe someone is yelling at you from behind. if your emotions get the best of your mind, you will most likely fail. i see people falling on the best wave of the day, i see competitors making wrong decisions in the dying seconds of heats, and i see surfers dropping in on each other without even knowing it. so my advice is always “keep calm and be present.” and if you can that, only good things will happen. 
and when you’re calm and present, you will feel every micro second of your ride. and each ride will only get better and better. 
i see my students transform right in front of my eyes and it’s a beautiful feeling. not just for them, but for me too. 
so now instead of yelling and correcting, i can just watch from behind and smile. this is surfing…
and this was how good the waves were this morning at Bowls. OMG! the Endless Summer continues…
