No Limit

109

we had a fun morning Boot Camp session at Bowls.  Nakagami-san looking better and better every day!

went to see my skin doctor for my annual skin cancer screening.  looking good.  i think every surfer who spends a lot of time in the sun should get an annual screening before it’s too late.

we’ve been having some crazy accidents recently.  please drive safe everyone.

a couple months ago, Kao-chan came to Hawaii to surf.  i took her out to Bowls on a very big day.  she was scared but she survived.  then she said that she gained the courage to go back to Japan and surf this recent Super Typhoon.  that’s so amazing!!!

every time i see a Bonsai plant, it reminds me of Mr. Miyagi in the “Karate Kid” movie.  that’s when i learned what a bonsai plant was.  and ever since then, i love looking at them…

omg, i just watched this movie called “No Limit” on Netflix.  it’s a true story about a beautiful young woman free diver.  i was confused after i watched it so i researched more about that girl.  omg, it’s a tragic death that wasn’t supposed to happen.  watch it and let me know your opinion…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide