The Exercise Hunt

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i thought the waves were going to be smaller and slower than yesterday but it was the exact different.  bigger sets, more waves, and cleaner conditions.  such a surprise for the very few guys that were out.  

smooth glassy conditions for the local boys. 

i though it was going to be super small so i only took my foil to the beach.  i wish i had my short board, but no regrets.  i tuned my mind into hunting for the perfect set.  it was a little big for the foil, but i wanted to try anyway.  

i teach my students, “be calm and everything will be ok.”   so when i was taking off on wave i usually don’t paddle in with my foil, i was thinking “be calm and everything will be ok.”  and guess what?  it was totally ok!

there is no way i would have gotten such an adrenaline rush like this on my shortboard.  the waves felt like 10′ for me as my foil was flying so fast.  and it was the best workout i had in a long time!  so stoked!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide