Art by Jeannie Chesser

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i went to surf Bowls this morning and it was super fun.  it was so fun that i forgot to take photos.  then i came home and went to work on the phone calls to Japan.  i haven’t been this excited in so many years.  going to Japan to see my friends, surf good waves, eat good food, and go with the flow.  i have no idea where i’m going to end up but this swell forecast looks promising.  thank you Matchi for the update!

i got my suitcase out of the closet and will start packing!

i’m taking one surfboard and one foil board.  i used this shortboard this morning and already put it in the bag.  surf or foil, i’ll be a happy man.  i’ve been waking up at 1am for the past 3 days.  i think i’m too excited that i can’t sleep!  haha.

i went to Jeannie Chesser’s art fair.  when i saw this, i had to get it!  this one is going in my sauna room.  i love it!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide