I Love Shonan

135

surfers check the waves multiple times daily.  and when we see something, we jump on it.  Matsu caught the 2 hour train back from Sendai to Shonan.  Toda-san, Takami-san, and i drove the camping car back.  that took about 8 hours because we had to make a quick stop in Chiba.  the next day, i was super tired but Matsu looked super fresh!  look at his smile.  haha…

i was happy to foil with Matsu and Ruisan in Shonan.  these guys foil here every day so i couldn’t wait to fly with them.

we don’t have this type of wave on Oahu so flying out there was super exciting!  this spot is a foilers dream wave.  the ocean is so calm so when you’re flying, it’s very peaceful.  i would love to foil out there on a big day!

i had lunch with my Japanese brother and sister.  Matsuo-san and Eri-chan are super cool and mellow.  we can hang out every single day and always get along.  or we won’t see each other for 4 years and when we finally do, nothing changes.  it’s the kind of connection that siblings have.  so yes, it was nice to catch up with these 2 very important people in my life.  good to see you so healthy Matsuo-san, and let’s do an Indo trip Erichan!

 

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide