We left really early in the morning to look for waves. I was thinking that huge Eddie Aikau swell might be wrapping into the South shore today. Nobody knows so the only way is to look for yourself. 
When I see the sun rising, the waves aren’t important anymore. Enjoying that moment is. 
I’m driving very slow checking every spot because the swells are inconsistent. If you pass by a spot too fast, you might miss the sets. 
I saw this set and put on the brakes! Threw in the anchor and enjoyed this beautiful swells that were absolutely perfect! 
Neil caught a wave so long that it took him 10 minutes to paddle back out. 
Always good to see Curtis Miyashiro in the ocean. 
I put on my small wing today so I could double my workout. By the end of the session, I was totally exhausted. Went home, took a nap, and went to surf a secret spot in the afternoon. Nobody out and super fun waves all to myself. I love the Winter!
