Driving Along the Coast

111

Abe-san and I went out for an early morning session.  The rain, clouds, and cold weather must have kept everybody in bed because it was empty.

The rights at Bowls were super good!  Look at Abe-san go!

Surfing and smiling.  The biggest and happiest place in the world.

Great surfing Abe-san!  Fun surfing with you these past 12 years.  See you down at the Pipeline Pro!  

Then I went to drive the coast line over to the East side.  Sandy Beach was onshore but the waves looked good!

there were only 2 surfers out in the whole ocean.  I didn’t expect to see swell there so I drove to another spot that might be better. 

And it was better!  Then the sun came out and the waves turned beautiful.  Scored 2 good rounds of surfing today!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide