Killing Time @ Magic Island

97

I was walking in Magic Island early this morning waiting to see if I can surf this unusual South swell or head to the North shore to watch the contest.  My Sister giving me the updates on the Pipeline Pro as I wait patiently.  

Then I get the call, “contest off for today.”  Went straight to Mayuki and headed to a spot I knew was going to be epic.  

Bowls looked fun too but the water was stinky so I kept moving on.  

Then I get there and as expected, the waves were perfect.  I was flying around on my foil taking photos of the locals.  Check out Malia on a sweet one!  Look how beautiful the water was!  

And once again, Paul got the best wave of the day.  I was standing tall on my foil looking down 20′ and took this photo.  One of my best shots in a long time.  Can you believe we’re surfing a South swell in January?  Tomorrow is February 1st and the waves are supposed to be bigger.  Sleep early and surf early.  North or South?  Only Mother Nature knows.  Goodnight.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide