After experiencing the Eddie Aikau contest with 30′ waves and 30,000 people, I prefer it this way. Playful 5′ and only us. It’s a very historical and magical bay. My Mom use to bring us here all the time back in 1974 so it’s always good feeling.
From the ocean, you can see Waimea Valley with the rain showering down and forming huge rainbows right in front of your eyes.
And the reef here is much different than other spots. There are huge boulders instead of sharp reef.
Say goodbye to the sun, clean water, and glassy conditions. The next 3 days are going to be very tricky. The wind and weather is going to be get ugly so you have to know where to go. I’m sleeping early and heading out early because I’m pretty sure this spot I haven’t surfed in a long time will be epic!