We drove around and around early this morning looking for the perfect wave. Most spots were onshore and junky.
BUT, when we pulled up to this spot, it seemed like a different day. Dead winds and perfect waves. Matchi was there before us watching the waves.
After driving around and looking for waves, it’s easy to get excited to see this.
Better positioning, better timing, and better rides today. This girl surfed for about 5 hours and caught over 30 waves. Once again, the happiest surfer in Hawaii.
I paddled out just to wake up before the drive home. Where the heck is everyone???
Last wave to the beach, back in the car, and diving home with the biggest smile again. Of the past 7 years of Boot Camp, this trip is by far the most successful. FINALLY!!!!