This morning was good again. The swell was a little tricky but if you found the right one, you will be happy. 
And the rights have been better than the lefts. Carter on a nice right at Bowls. 
I’m in love with surfing again. The feeling of connecting directly with the ocean feels wonderful. But I still like flying on the foil too. Some people say you can’t have everything, but I say you can! Haha. 
I drove Mayuki down to the Airport and looked for a nice peaceful spot where nobody else was. 
Then I put on my mask and started scrubbing the bottom. The water turned dirty dark brown and I could barely see. I was scrubbing for over an hour and I thought about sharks a lot. Not because I’m scared, but because I know that’s where the biggest sharks are. And if something happened, nobody would even know I’m down there. 
It’s been a while since I spent time alone on Mayuki. Thank you for bringing me back home…
