The Bloody Face Cutback

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This morning was the 4th day in a row surfing at Rockpiles.  Today one of the locals paddled out and said “why aren’t you at Bowls anymore?”  Haha.  If you don’t know me by now, I go where’s the best.  And for the past 4 days, Rockpiles was the best.  

Seigo-san and I had an amazing session.  The conditions were perfect.

Then we watched the “Easter Sunday” sunrise from the ocean.  It was amazing.

Seigo-san practicing the cutback today.  This is a very important maneuver for surfing.  If you can’t do it, you better figure it out.  It all starts off with a nice clean bottom turn.

Then next is aligning your front arm, eyes, and board to the opposite direction.  

Then you will feel the spray coming off the outside rail of your surfboard.  This feels amazing.

The past 3 days were empty but today being a Sunday, it was packed.  A total of 3 locals out.  Lucky Sunday because there are usually 15 locals out every morning.  Thanks boys for sharing your lineup.  

Boot Camp has some risks.  Risks that lead to a bloody face.  No, I didn’t punch Seigo-san, his surfboard did.  Haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide