good morning. 6:45am on this windy tuesday morning. gosh, things were flying outside my house last night. there’s still a lot of north in the winds so the conditions aren’t that great on the north shore. seen some 4′ sets and i’m hoping the winds turn more out of the east and waves get better as the day goes on. i got the kids with me today so we’re probably going to surf all day. then i’ll let them loose at the house and they will probably end up in the tree house like little monkeys… gotta get out of here… have a nice day…
every time i sit outside of ted’s bakery at sunset eating my shoyu chicken plate, i stare at this painting of the late ronnie burns. i was fortunate to know ronnie burns and even surfed the HPAC pro contests when he was surfing it. i will never forget the biggest HPAC pipeline pro final back in the 80’s. tony moniz was in the final so i was his caddy. i was sitting on tony’s 8’0 in the channel when the waves got so big and out of control. it was almost dark but they had to finish the contest. every body was getting cleaned up by the second reef sets and i remember ronnie turning around on an inside 12′ double up, taking the late drop, and pulling into the hugest barrel. of course, he made it. and of course, he got a perfect 10. and of course, he won the contest with that one wave. ronnie passed away in a motorcycle accident at the tender age of 27 years old. it was a huge loss to the surfing world…
and last, leave you today with this photo i love. little boy, don’t give up. dreams do come true….
