Depending on the tide, Bowls can be a totally different wave. On the low tide, it’s fast, hollow, and shallow. On the high tide like this, it’s slower, softer, and deeper. Some prefer high tide and some prefer low tide. We like them both.
Nakahodo-san didn’t want to come in. We were out there for 3 hours and if I didn’t say let’s go in, we would probably still be out there right now.
30 rides in 3 hours. That’s what you call an epic session.
This girls been studying how to do cutbacks. And it seems like it’s working because this is a very nice one.
Everybody is getting better and that’s what I want to see. Good job boys and girls.
The day before Lance left to Indonesia, he told me “eh, I don’t have a rash guard. can you get me a Dove one?” Shortly after, it was hand delivered with love. Have a safe trip brother.