I went to check the waves this morning in the dark and even though it looked fun, I decided to take a day off. I’ve surfed over 100 rounds since January 1st so my body felt like doing something else. That something else was to take a long walk. I only had slippers so running wasn’t an option.
I walked around looking at trees, the ocean, and of course, the waves. I saw a couple fun spots with nobody out. Even seeing that, I still enjoyed my walk.
Very interesting buildings near Diamond Head. They call this the Gold Coast of Oahu.
Back to yesterday. Watari-san’s been surfing for 5 years and he caught his best waves of his life in Hawaii.
A super cool guy with a good surfing style. More big swells on the way. My bruised ribs finally healed so feeling 100% again!
