Supersize it?

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i’ve been so busy recently that sometimes i don’t even have time to eat. the other day, i had 10 minutes of free lunch time all day so what did i eat? mcdonald’s. yeah, as much as i hate eating there, that’s the only place i can eat a meal in 10 minutes.

what did i order? because i’m a tight ass, i always look at the Dollar Menu. a dollar double cheeseburger, a dollar side salad, and free water. this lunch cost me $2.08. and if i had more time, i would have ordered a dollar hot fudge sundae. busy, busy, busy!!!

imagine being a parent of a surf family. you raise your kids well, you watch them grow into young adults, and watch each of them go their own way. then one day your sitting at pipeline and see your eldest son taking a pipeline left, while your youngest son is taking a backdoor right. you take out your camera and capture the moment. this is the moment. this is my sisters 2 kids. this is my 2 nephews. and this isn’t the last time you will see something like this. you think my sister is proud? shit, i’m feeling pretty dam happy now thinking that my nephews are carving their names into the most infamous surf spot in the world! good job boys! uncle’s proud of you guys!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide