PURE HAWAIIANS….

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good morning. 6am saturday and there seems to be a little south swell rolling into town right now. see some fun shoulder/head high sets at bowls with 12 guys out. clean and sunny. i’m so tired but might have to jump in the water for a session…. or go back to sleep? umm….

i got the call on wednesday from kyle nakamoto. he invited me to go on a 1 day trip to molokai to film legend diver walter naki. come to find out, walter is tony moniz’s cousin. it was a opportunity i couldn’t turn down. i knew it was going to be an experience of a lifetime…. and being that tony has a house right in front where walter’s boat is parked, why not make it a 2 day trip? so that’s what we did and what we saw in those 2 days, blew my mind. walter took us to places that 1 in 100,000,000 people could only see. it’s kind of like winning the las vegas jackpot. i took some amazing photos that will be with me forever. some i can share, and some i can’t. some are just too sacred that it’s best kept a secret….

toda-san and takami-san are here on oahu for vacation. they couldn’t have been here at a better time. they came along and saw what oahu was like 100 years ago. untouched. i think it was an eye opener for them….

maki and pee-chan came along too. these 2 people are super funny. we were just laughing and laughing the whole trip…. got many and many of stories to come so stay tuned…

there were pods of dolphins and we had the ultimate chance to swim with them. that’s until somebody chased them away….
**this is what molokai taught me:
be friendly, do things from the heart, give, don’t take, respect the land, respect the ocean, respect people, live simple, and most important, welcome everybody.

the people of molokai took care of my friends and i. even though we were all tourists on their island, they opened their hearts and gave, gave, gave. the kindest people i’ve ever met on any island in hawaii, or in the world. they shared their food, surf, and knowledge. i will never ever forget this experience and can’t wait to do it again. i’m going to have some time this summer and would like to spend a month there. maybe i will…. well, gotta get back to reality for now. wanted to say thanks to the people of molokai. you guys are true hawaiians….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide