Surfers need the Ocean

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flying in luxury is pretty cool. my first time, i was so nervous. 2nd,
3rd, 4th time still nervous. now? i’m pretty comfortable. pulling up
to an airplane with your car in hawaii, then landing with a limo waiting
for you? it still feels surreal but i’m getting use to it. haha. the
service is totally different. i don’t even have to carry my bags
anymore. we’re supposed to go back to hawaii tomorrow but everybody
wants to surf so we’re going back today. 2 days is more than enough for
me here. it’s hot and the not kind of lifestyle. i gambled a little
but the main excitement was the fight. i was stoked to be there and see
all the celebrities walking around. as i was leaving the arena, former
heavyweight champion of the world Evander Holyfield walked right next to
me. mike tyson was there too along with oscar dela hoya.
the weird thing is the air here. my skin looks and feels like a
lizard. so dry because the air is super dry. i can’t wait to get back
to hawaii and jump into the ocean. i got my 2 new boards, and we’re
going straight to the beach from the airport. i have to say that this
was an awesome trip. super fun and super exciting. now it’s time to go
back to hawaii and work! like i always, work hard, and play harder!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide