i can’t be a luckier person to be able to surf everyday here in hawaii. yesterday, i surfed for 6 hours! almost my record time for a day. the waves and weather were perfect!
Yoda-san really wants to get better in surfing so before we paddled out, i told him that i will be honest, give him my opinion, and we will take it from there. from the first wave, i surfed aside of him and was coaching him like a trainer coaching a boxer. while taking video, i was yelling “bend your knees! look forward! turn! walk the board! Uppercut! haha. just joking. Yoda-san’s dream was to walk the board and not only did he walk the board, he rode on the nose for a long time. he’s been surfing for 4 years and he’s really good! yesterday, he rode the nose for the first time, and yesterday, he rode his longest wave in his life. i was more stoked than him!
i bumped into Barrels Surf Shop rider yesterday too. what a small world! good to see my friends from japan enjoying hawaii!
then i seen a japanese girl that paddled out. looked familiar but didn’t want to stare at her too much. why? because i’m not a stalker. then after a few waves, she came up to me and we talked. come to find out, i met Naoko 2 years ago on the beach. she is staying at daisuke’s house, which is 1 minute from my house. what a small world again! hey Naoko, nice to see you again. excellent english, and excellent surfing. hope you enjoy your rest of your stay here in hawaii. thanks for the photo from 2 years ago. i totally remember this day. and see you in the water!
