good evening. i went with shun early this morning for a bowls dawn patrol session. i wasn’t planning to wake up early because we slept so late last night. i got up to use the bathroom at 5:30am and thought i’d check the waves. oh my gosh!!! bowls was going off!! i woke shun up and we were in the water 15 minutes later…. bowls is the hardest place on the south shore to catch waves and i wanted shun to work for every wave he can get. getting dropped in and getting snaked all day will surely make anybody mad….. and hungry… so that was the point… i hope he takes that anger and uses it in a right way. because if you want to catch good waves in the world, you have to work at it. nothing comes easy when it comes to that. and bowls is the best place in the world to get dropped in and snaked. haha….
toda-san and takami-san were out surfing with us. takami-san got so many good rights… score!!!
then we went to the pet store to look at little fish…
shun stayed over my house last night so after dinner, we were watching the WCT j-bay contest live online. then i went to grab seth’s old board from under my house. it was kind of bust up and ugly. so shun and i gave it a make over. it was almost 10pm when shun was taking off the wax and sanding the board for a new paint job. it’s all about recycling… wait till you see it….
by the way, i just sold my yamaha 4 stroke 4 hp motor. i sold it for cheap and the guy who bought it scored a deal…. why did i sell it? because i’m getting rid of old toys making room for new ones… haha…
getting back to shun’s board. this is in the process stage. we slept at 12 midnight last night working hard on it….. it was kind of fun seeing shun so excited. i’m trying to teach the kids how to recycle…. i hope it works….
