Hawaii Paparazzi: Watch OUT!

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good evening. what a cool day. surfing and actually pretty cold in the water. surfed 2x and had lots of fun. after my second session, this guy tried to steal katsura-san’s bag right in front of us. he threw his towel on the bag, grabbed it, and started to walk away. katsura-san ran to him, grabbed her bag and said “THIS IS MINE!!!!.” i freaked out, the guy freaked out, and i’m still freaking out. he jumped into a gold chevy truck and drove away. a 6’2 black man about 250lbs. looked like toda-san, but not japanese, he was african-american. and i memorized his face. next time i see him at bowls, i’m going to get my baseball bat out from my car and hit him on the head. then ask him “give me back my yamari slippers!!!!” it’s sad to see people stealing right in front of your eyes.
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the thing i like most is taking people that come to hawaii for the first time surfing and sightseeing. and if they are newlyweds on their honeymoon, it makes it even better. just to see the expression on their faces when they catch the longest wave in their life, or when we pull up to the worlds best view, tantalus. so when people ask me if i love what i do, i answer “absolutely!”
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want to wish the new Mr. and Mrs. Takaesu a safe flight back to okinawa. and if my friends in okinawa are reading this, please give my new friend some waves when he surfs sunabe next. thanks and see all you boys soon!
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last night we were eating at a local vietnamese restaurant near my house and a japanese girl walked in with a big hat covering most of her face. she sits on the table next to us and i get a good look at her. ummm.. never seen her before. then Inaida-san recognizes her face and tells me she’s a famous actress named Miho Kanno. who? i don’t know who she is. then we get back to the condo and when i seen her photos, i remember her. super cute famous actress in many dramas i’ve watched in japan. the i remembered that i seen her at a taiwan nabe place in hawaii last year. i guess she loves hawaii too? i really don’t know any famous people in japan except Tokiwa Takako and Noriko Sakai. yes, my favorite drama queens for sure. i seen Noriko Sakai about 7 years ago in a bar and i won’t forget that moment. and if i see Tokiwa Takako around in hawaii somewhere, i’d probably faint. haha.
but after seeing Miho Kanno walking around with a hat that covers most of her face, i kind of felt sorry for her. being famous has a price tag. she was probably hiding from the paparazzi and from annoying japanese fans. last night, she walked into the wrong restaurant because that’s my local restaurant and i can tweet or blog anything i want. welcome to hawaii! haha.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide