what a fun day. surfed with 6 people 2 rounds. the waves were just perfect! not too big, not too small. warm, sunny, and offshore. i took some photos but i’m too sunburned to sit in front of my computer to download it all. i have to take a cold shower and go to sleep. tomorrow i have a long day ahead. dawn patrol! yeah!
this was M2 in kobochihama. good to see the smiles! photo by matsu.
i took kimura-san and his family to my favorite korean surfer style bbq in kaimuki. nice smile.
nick mita always wanted to donate something for tohoku. i gave him kimura-san’s address last year, he sent a box of clothes, and now, they finally meet. it was a pretty awesome moment. when ever 2 people from japan and hawaii connect in any way, it’s always an awesome moment. that’s my dream!
hawaiian/japanese bbq! good food, good entertainment, good friends, and good memory. photo by maki-san.
kimura-san’s parents are so cute! they remind me of my grandparents when i was young. so much japanese culture, so much strength, and so much kindness. i just wish i could communicate more with them. they speak tohoku dialect so i understand 0.0%. haha. photo by maki-san.
thank you kikawa-san for the somen. i love it!
when i first came back to hawaii, my dosimeter started beeping in the middle of the night. it was soooo weird!
and look what’s going on in the pacific ocean. something turning into a typhoon? i hope to be riding swells from that in a few days ahead.
