how hot was it again? gosh, i surf for only an hour and i’m tired. from all the humidity, sweat, and moving around, this heat wave is taking away all my energy. i’m usually an outdoor guy but not now. i don’t want to leave my room. can somebody turn off the heater?
been scoring again and again. just when everybody thinks the waves are getting smaller, it gets bigger. today was the biggest day i’ve seen down here in west japan. i was eating lunch in front of a spot and seen a solid 10′ set. this typhoon is the biggest one ever recorded and if you looked at the ocean, you would think so too. i’m just driving around japan looking for surf and finding it everywhere. most spots are super secret and only for locals and i like to keep it that way. i got an email from someday last night asking me where that spot i surfed yesterday was. i simply replied “i’m very sorry but i love my life and if i tell you, i won’t be loving my life anymore. i hope you understand.”
and i was on skype with a friend from okinawa last night. she was locked up in the house and everybody was ordered to stay indoors. they lost electricity and things were flying around the place. today things are starting to look better. thank goodness.
there is only 2 contests in the world i watch. one is the pipeline masters, and one is the tahiti pro. i’m not watching to cheer surfers on, i’m watching how to ride barrels backside. i’m watching everybody’s style and how they approach the wave. from the take off till the end. then next time i surf a big barreling left, i’ll copy it. pretty simple huh? not.
i learned how to frontside barrel by this man kelly slater. there was an article in a surfing magazine about 20 years ago on kelly teaching his secrets on how to barrel ride. i read it, i went on a trip to indonesia, and i couldn’t believe how good his advise worked. my barrel ride succession rate instantly went from 40% to 80%. the 20% i still don’t make, i blame kelly. haha.
this french kid jeremy flores got the wave of the day yesterday in tahiti. a perfect 10. tomorrow is the finals so don’t miss it.
and once again, chinese sun bathers. what is the point?
