Alcohol Free

299

good evening. wow, what a great day for surfing this morning. i checked some spots and seen some perfect conditions. a nice south/west swell, a nice north swell, and waves all over the island. these are the kind of days the crowd thins out and these are the kind of days everybody is happy.
well, it’s been 4 nights since i left okinawa and i haven’t had one sip of alcohol since. i’ve been feeling lively and super energetic from the time my eyes open. surfing, working out, moving around, shopping, computer, and much more. just been getting so many things done. i realize i am 100% more productive when i don’t drink alcohol the night before. but once i see my friends, the beers go down easy. haha.
photo 3
had a super fun day with Mr. and Mrs. Fujisawa today. both from Kagawa in
Shikoku. it was their first time surfing so my goal is for them to stand up on their very first wave. both did so and i could see how happy they were by the smile on their faces. welcome to surfing, and welcome to blue hawaii!
photo 4
surf, then eat some vietnam pho, then some waiola shave ice, then take a nap. can’t beat that right?
photo 1
recently i’ve been asked by friends to change their batteries. if you send it to nixon in america, it takes a long time and a lot of money. if you bring it to me, i do it for free. once a friend of mine changed my battery for free so i’m doing the same thing. remember “pay it forward?” i do.
photo 2
done! if i opened a mobile battery changing shop, i’d be rich! haha.
anyway, glad to be back home. been super busy with millions of things to do but i like it. moving and keeping busy is my life. just can’t stop! now i’m going computer hunting. why? because this one is 6 years old and can’t keep up with me. time to turn her in.
have a wonderful evening.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide