NINE SURF SHOP TEAM!!

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good morning. after starving all day yesterday, i feel like eating a huge piece of steak for breakfast. my eye? don’t know yet. still have the patch and will be heading to the hospital today to get it taken off and checked. i’m just hoping that i don’t have to go through this again. i still have flashbacks of the needle going into my eye. they gave me pain killers but i don’t want to take it. it will make me feel weird and i won’t be able to do anything. so i will just endure the pain again and just see how much i can handle. i don’t have time to complain because i have my hand surgery tomorrow. i’m glad i have insurance because i just got my bill for going to the ER room 3 weeks ago for x-rays of my hand. that was $1,150. my eye surgery was about $2,400 yesterday, and my hand surgery? probably big bucks too. medical insurance in hawaii is a must and if you don’t have it, stay home all day and don’t live a dangerous life like me. because if you do, you will be homeless in no time. well, gotta get going. have a nice rainy day!!! yeah!!! rain baby rain!!!
as for the waves, the north shore is looking 3-5′ and junky. already kind of windy. town has some small waves at bowls with clean perfect conditions. everybody take a 1 month break with me. haha…

i wanted to thank jun from nine surf for setting things up for our group when we were in hiroshima. i’ve known jun for a long time. jun’s cool, mellow, and surfs really good. here we are in nine surf shop with his new baby Karen… kawaii!!!

after dinner, we went to grab a few drinks at a bar in town. all these guys are cool!!! fron the back left, it’s Goto-san, next to him is Dr. Ito-san, then right back in Jun, then me, and last, obara-san. the people in hiroshima are super kind and good surfers!!! thanks and see you guys again!!!

i wanted to thank Goto-san for this rare bottle of shoyu. this shoyu in put into a recycled beer bottle and made on an island right off hiroshima. as soon as i get some sashimi, i’m going to sample it. itadakimasu!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR NINE SURF JUN’S BLOG….
**and last, check out this photo my friend sent me. this is a photo of dove wetsuits rider takayuki wakita charging pipeline 2 days ago. 15′ hawaiian scale? i think so. sick photo!! go wakita!!!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide