Ame doko???

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good morning. 7am here and i’m wondering where the rain is? today is like the nicest day since i got back. no clouds and really blue skies. what happened to that big storm? oh well… it’s freezing cold and feeling like winter this morning. it’s my first official day i’m wearing sweat pants this year. the winds turned south/east so the waves in town aren’t looking anything like it has been. in fact, it’s ugly. a pretty solid north swell in the country and i bet laniakea is going off. as for me, i’m going to see the michael jackson movie “This is It”. i heard it’s good…. anyway, have a nice day!!!

toda-san gives a trophy to one of his blog fans. maki-san won it. gosh, i’m going to start writing comments on his blog too? haha…

some people are wondering where that okinawan restaurant is. sorry, can’t say. all i can say is that once you walk in there, you feel like you walked into okinawa. culture, fun, good food, and always a good time….

i had to drive out to the east side yesterday so i went to check this secret spot i use to surf before. with the north winds, east swell, i knew it was going to be going off. it was pain and suffering watching 100 perfect waves go unridden. i regret checking that spot…

my hand surgery follow up appointment was yesterday afternoon. the stitches were done from inside to prevent a big scar. there was no bacteria inside anymore. the doctor told me that if i didn’t have the surgery, my hand would have gotten infected for sure. it was really deep between the bone joints and even went through one nerve. i can’t feel part of my thumb but he said the feeling will come back. i hope so. so doing it was the right choice and now that it’s over, i’m stoked!! and guess what? he said that i can get it wet!! guess what i did right after that? yup, went for doggie swim with my head out of the water. it felt pretty dam good. now it’s just my eye and i’ll be surfing and diving again. but for now, i’ll be doggie swimming everyday… see you other doggies in the water…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide