Spice Girls Collection….

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good morning. 6:30am on this windy and cloudy tuesday. it’s so windy that things are flying around outside my house. waves on the north shore are small. pretty much flat. there is a small south swell now. bowls is chest high with 8 guys out. it looks cold and windy. great day to stay home and watch a movie. or a great day to work in the computer. that’s what i’m going to do…. have a nice day…

yesterday i went for my eye checkup. the doctor looked at my eye with the microscope and seen 3 stitches that didn’t dissolve. he grabbed a fine pointy tweezers that looked like needles and told me to open my eye wide and hold still. he held my head and i was watching this needle tweezers coming right into the center of my eye. he pulled one and yanked one out. i felt like my eyeball was going to pop out. then he did it again. and again. i swear, that was pretty dam heavy. my freaken eye is not a toy. i felt like throwing up. i swear my life’s been a nightmare recently….
the good news is that my eye is getting better. i can go in the water come dec. 1st. 2 more weeks? i can’t take anymore. my suitcase is packed and i’m out of here.

i went up to the north shore with these 3 cool girls. i’ve known eri-chan for a while, i met ayumi-chan a few nights ago, and i met julie-chan today. it’s so weird how everybody is connected through somebody in some way. this world is so fricken small!!!

we went to ehukai. i watched on the beach with oomori-san as the girls were ripping. the waves looked super fun and i was actually getting frustrated watching so many unridden waves. i was waiting for some kid to come out of the water and say “the waves are shitty.” i would have choked his neck, and make him say sorry to me. sorry for complaining about the waves. at least he can surf right? haha…

ayumi-chan owns a vintage shop in chigasaki called “Stone Free.” and they sell Spice Girls Clothing!! now that’s my kind of shop…
**CLICK HERE FOR SPICE GIRLS CLOTHING AUTUMN & WINTER COLLECTION…

and last, we went to eat at my secret filipino restaurant. the chicken adobo, pork with blood, and deep fried dog was so good. oishikatta…..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide