kusaya….

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good morning. wow, it’s december 1st!! 25 days until christmas. i better get back home. today is the official day i can go back in the water. as soon as i get back to hawaii, i have big plans. surf, dive, yoga, run, gym. i feel so out of shape because it’s the first time i was out of action for that long. i feel weak and so dam white. give me a month and i’ll be back in shape. well, got a lot of things to do today so better get going. have a nice day!!!

after driving over 2,000 kilos or 1,250 miles, naoka and i got back to shonan. we were supposed to get back to work but instead went out to celebrate a fun 3 day trip. this is matsuo, akko, naoka, mae-chan, and hayato at the yakiniku restaurant around 8pm. this is when the party just started. if i took a photo of us at midnight, you would have laughed. we were all bus up…

kusaya is so stink that it should be banned. it’s from niijima and the first time i ate it, i almost threw up from the smell. it’s a fish that’s soaked in the guts and left out in the sun for days. it makes natto smell like roses. it’s been over 12 years since i ate it. as soon as i took my first bite, i realized why it’s been that long. gosh, it’s so stink!!!

hormones is the parts of the cow that people in america throw away. not in japan. we eat the whole thing including the tongue and balls….

this was the after party at matsuo’s house. i don’t remember anything after this….
wanted to thank matsuo, akko, naoka, mae-chan, and hayato for the great time. i’m sure everybody has a hangover today. haha….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide