woke up this morning and the waves were so junk in town. i was worried because i knew Sachie-san was looking forward to surfing in hawaii today. i pick her up, took a chance and drove to ala moana. nobody was out so we decided to paddle anyway. as we got closer to the waves, it started looking good. and it just got better from then. chest high sets and perfect long lefts. Sachie-san caught her longest waves in her life and we had so much fun. only one person surfing with us and it was like a dream session. and get this. on her forth or fifth wave, she surfed all along the inside and a shark joined her in the wave. i told her how lucky she was. i’ve never surfed the same wave with a shark before and i’d pay anything to get that opportunity. what a lucky girl!
after that, we went to chinatown and enjoyed the best dimsum on the island.
healthy, tasty, and cheap. i still won’t tell anybody where this place is. it’s only the chinese locals and us.
somebody stole my slippers at ala moana again!!! the second time in 3 days!!! so i had to go eat and walk around barefoot. walking around barefoot in chinatown is kind of a dirty feeling. gosh, now i have to buy 2 pairs of slippers.
if you know where to go, you can get really good waves. i wake up every morning at 5:30am and before the sun comes up, i already know where the best spot is. i should change my job to a surf forecaster? haha.
anyway, the waves will be really good on the north shore tomorrow so i’m going out there. surf backdoor and watch kelly slater at the sunset contest. then surf again. see you out there!
last, hey Sachie-san, thank you for the fun day in the water. i’m so happy to see your surfing improve after every wave. you were ripping! and thank you for the yoga tips. i actually came home and did the yoga pose i’ve always been dreaming of. i’ll send you a photo. mahalo.
