driving to the north shore today, i had butterflies in my stomach because i knew it was going to be big. i had my 7’6 in the back of the truck and sunset beach was my destination. it’s my first time surfing big sunset this year so i was excited. i came over the hill and the waves were big and still getting bigger…
as i pulled up, the sun came over the mountain and sunset was as nice as it gets. i’d say 6-10′ with bigger sets. some of the boys were calling the sets 12’…. i got 2 barrels and that made my day. or should i say, made my christmas…. ended up surfing for 3 hours. guys out? kohei chiba, kaishu, joe tanaka, teppei tajima, sunny garcia, kala alexander, noah johnson, and about 50 more surfers. sunset was the best spot today for sure….
look what the big waves did to the beach. i’ve never seen such corrosion like this before. before you could step off the sidewalk onto nice sand. now? if you step off, it’s almost like falling off a mountain….
then i went to haleiwa to watch the haleiwa international contest. it’s good to see so many japanese competitors down there. jason shibata’s doing a great job!!!
the waves were 4-6′ and super nice. i wish i could have surfed out there today….
this is seth and my grand-nephew noah. seth cut his hair and got so tall that i didn’t recognize him… don’t you think he’s starting to look like me? lucky boy. haha.. and baby noah fell down and got stitches in his eye. ouch…
**on the way back to town, i had to stop by a four places to get things done. everywhere i went, the service i got was so terrible. everybody seemed so down and unhappy. no smiles, no aloha, and no christmas spirit. i couldn’t believe this is hawaii. hey guys, if your not happy, quit your job. our economy is bad enough and everybody is feeling down, but to take that to work and bring customers down too is terrible. if i were their bosses, everybody would be fired. i almost lost my cool and was going to say something not too nice but i held back. i thought to myself, i just got barreled at sunset beach, christmas is in a few days, and i’m not going down to that level. so i kept on smiling and said to everybody “merry christmas”…. and guess what? i had no reply. haha… go surf guys!!!!
