Cherish the Moment!

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no, this is not kelia moniz, this is kelia moniz’s little cousin and biggest fan. she wanted to surf so badly yesterday to start the new year but it rained all day. then today, same thing. rain from morning to afternoon. then about 4pm, i said “hey, let’s just go anyway.” we drove down to the beach in the rain and cold, we paddled out in our wetsuits, and after 15 minutes of rain, the sun creeped its way out of the clouds. it was one of the most amazing things i have ever seen. it was like GOD took out his paintbrush and started to color the sky right in front of our eyes! he painted the hugest and brightest double rainbow stretching from diamond head all the way to ala moana. it was the biggest and most perfect rainbow i have ever seen. we surfed side to side on each wave right into the tunnel of the rainbow. wave after wave, smile after smile, and happiness after happiness. it was one of the most amazing moments of nature i’ve ever experienced in the water. it was only us and the double rainbow in the sky. for the first minute, i was yelling at myself because i didn’t have my camera. then something struck me. it’s moments like this make life so amazing. nobody would ever believe what i seen today, but that memory will be etched in my mind forever. a little amazing surfer girl who i dearly love, and myself starting the new year exactly how i wanted it to start. i want to live the moment! enjoy the moment! and remember the moment for the rest of my life. welcome to this beautiful 2013!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide