i want to thank Matsu for sending me these photos from germany. he’s in munich now on photo assignment. gosh, i have to go here some day to try this.
the water looks freezing cold!
maybe i’ll go to germany to just catch one wave?
speaking of one wave, i was at rocky point shooting the other morning. the waves were coming up right in front of my eyes so i jumped in my car and headed to backdoor. i was shooting and seen some amazing riding like this wave of gavin beschen. yes, i was jealous but i had work to do. i only had 1 hour before i had to go back to town to work. should i go out and get a few?
then i see Nishizeko-san get ready to paddle out. i wanted to get a photo of him because he’s an official go-naminori blogger. so i wait patiently and was hoping he caught a wave soon. then 5 minutes later, he gets a good barrel.
i take the sequence and knew i got a good photo. the waves weren’t good all morning but i knew it was going to get better so i run to my car and grab my 6’0. wax it up and run down to the beach and paddle my fastest out. i paddle out, see my friend dan malloy out and start talking story about our west australia trip a while ago. he was out for 2 hours and i told him “these are the kind of days you can get a good barrel with nobody around.” then out of the horizon, i see a big set coming, i paddle, i take off, i bottom turn, and i get a stand up barrel! i come in, i run to my car, and i drive back to town with a big smile on my face. from leaving my car to surf to coming back, it took me 18 minutes. 18 minutes door to door and i get a backdoor barrel. it was my first barrel of this year and i needed it really bad. i’ve been working too hard and just to get a good barrel on the north shore resets my mind and makes me want to work harder and get barreled deeper. what a great day!
so thank you Go-Naminori Official Blogger Fumihiko Nishizeko for catching a wave really fast so i could get my job done and get a wave too. and thank you for posting this photo of my 1 wave! keep on surfing and see you in the water or on Go-Naminori! Surf Your Dream!
