i surfed haleiwa this morning. on a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being best, i’d rate it 8.5. the waves were solid 6′ + and perfect. it looked ugly from the beach but once you got in the water, it was perfect haleiwa. breaking all the way across. and every 30 minutes, a huge double up set will come in. i got one and had the ride of my life!!!
surfed for 2.5 hours and my arms were like rubber after fighting the current all morning long. i caught over 20 waves and was so stoked because it was so uncrowded. only japanese. good to see matchi, satoshi, the kids, glen matsumoto, shuji kasuya, hayato, and other japanese ripping up haleiwa. what an awesome session..
here comes this big set, i turn for it, paddle, take off late, i hit all kinds of bumps in the wave and finally get to the bottom of the wave, then my foot slips off, i eat shit, and get pounded. luckily, only my surfboard got damaged. better than my face…
when i pulled up early morning, the parking lot was full and there were so many people on the beach. it was kind of weird. come to find out, they were filming some movie or something on the beach. great for our economy..
by the way, they just announced that they will also film “Pirates of the Caribbean” in hawaii too. great news!!! go-hawaii!!
next 2 days will be windy so hold on to your hats!!!
