i was stuck in traffic for so long this morning. 2 accidents that backed up things for miles. i almost U-turned 2x but decided to go out anyway because today might be the last good day for a while on the north shore with the onshore winds coming this weekend. i finally get to the beach and it was much bigger than i thought. i grab my board, put on my leash, and paddle out. the energy of the ocean was amazing. so powerful and so much water moving around. a solid ground swell breaking over shallow reef! i catch a couple of waves, come in and grab my camera, and start shooting. yes, i’m a very hard worker! haha.
today was the kind of day where you have to wait and be patient. local wave knowledge helps too because there were only a few good waves coming through. this one, nobody was lucky.
and these are the kind of days that you can get the wave of your life. big, thick, shallow, and strong. if you make it, you’re feeling pretty dam good!
i was stoked to see WORLD CHAMPION BODYBOARDER AND OFFICIAL GO-NAMINORI BLOGGER JEFF HUBBARD in the water today. this guy is amazing!
and Jeff makes everything he tries to do. a true world champion!
and another kid getting barreled! the deadliest barrel in the world.
i came back to town before lunch, ate at my secret spot, and went surfing again after. beautiful waves, beautiful weather, and beautiful people all day long! great life huh? yeah!
and you know what’s more beautiful? i have many more photos i shot yesterday in my computer. stay tuned for a gallery.
