good morning. after such a long day yesterday, i wanted to sleep in. i turned off my phone and didn’t set my alarm. it’s still 7 am. i think my body is adjusted to waking up early. oh well…
big waves on the north shore. pipeline’s 12′ and to junky just as expected. town is chest/head high and a little bumpy too. bowls is looking pretty fun right now. light winds and clear skies.
i wanted to shoot underwater shots yesterday so i took out my goggles. i was swimming under shun and ma-kun and figured i’d show the boys how shallow backdoor is. this is the outside. imagine 6-10′ sets breaking right here? OMG!! i tried to swim more in to the impact zone to shoot the reef but it was so shallow that my camera was hitting the reef. that’s why when i paddled out in the afternoon, i was very careful and wasn’t going to take any chances. i told myself to just wait for a good one, and if i go, better make it. i just didn’t feel like hitting the reef yesterday….
as satoshi kubota took off, i swam underwater and waited for him to pass me. it was so cool watching him go right by that i almost forgot to take the photo. i snapped one at the last minute and here it is….
yesterday was the first time in a while is swam out with my fisheye. i forgot how fun it is to take photos. and i forgot to clean all the dust on my lens. and i forgot to charge my battery. as soon as i took my first shot, i looked at the lens and seen all the dust on it. and my battery light was blinking already. instead of getting all bummed, i just laughed at myself. that’s what happens when you try to do a million of things in such a short time…. will i slow down? no….
my sister called me yesterday telling me that isaiah just surfed his heat and made it on his last wave. he was loosing the heat and pulled it off at the end. so i jump up and turned on my computer. all i seen was the hawaiian team with the hawaiian flag running to the shoreline to congratulate isaiah. and i could hear on the phone was my sister, tony, and the kids screaming and cheering. i was lost for words….
**last, wanted to thank kimura-san and atusko-san for a wonderful korean dinner last night. and thank kinsan and ushikoshi for all the laughter… how was the raw korean oysters??? OMG!! the best!!!!
