good evening. what a great day for waves in hawaii. the north shore was going off but fujiki-san and i decided to surf somewhere different where nobody was around. that was pretty easy. a secret spot somewhere on this island where it was only us riding any and every wave we wanted. that was a great call because i needed that. sunny skies, glassy conditions, beautiful scenery, and nobody around taking our waves…
after we surfed, we went to watch the waves at bowls. this surfer dude walked by me, jumped off the rocks, and walked back in with a huge gash in his foot. i was eating my delicious steak plate at the time and after i seen all that blood, my steak never tasted the same. yuck…
this guy is getting stitches for sure. and he ain’t surfing for a while too. i felt so sorry for him because i know how that feels. anyway, just to let you know, the tide is been low pretty much all day. the reef is sharp in town so please be careful….
this is fujiki-san from aichi-ken. a true surfer, and a true nice guy. we surfed together for almost 3 hours exchanging waves. after surfing today with nobody around, surfing crowded diamond head or bowls just isn’t going to be the same. fujiki-san, please don’t tell anybody where we surfed today. that’s my super duper secret spot. mahalo…
fresh manjyu from aichi-ken. and a bottle of jack-san as presents? i’m so lucky!!! thank you so much fujiki-san!!! keep on surfing and hope to see you again!!!
**by the way, the surf report screwed up this morning. they reported south shores at flat-1′. wrong!!! there was a new south/east swell that came in and the waves were good everywhere in town. bowls was uncrowded, so was rockpiles, and kaisers. even when i drove by queen’s at 1 pm, there were only 3 guys out. thanks hawaii surf reporter for screwing up. please report the waves flat-1′ in town everyday!!! mahalo…
