good morning. wow, i had sweet dreams about yesterday’s afternoon session at vland. after over 22 years of surfing out there, i haven’t seen a better day than yesterday. and being a holiday, you would think it’s crowded? nope. from the beach, forget it. but when you paddle out, not one single local pro was out. i couldn’t believe all the barrels i seen. josh, seth, noah, matchi, maoh, rikiya, and yumi-chan scored. if i didn’t have my camera yesterday, i would have kicked myself in the ass. but i did so no ass kicking. i’m just so happy to have been there to witness and document some of the best riding i’ve ever seen out there. will we have to wait another 22 years to see another day like yesterday? i hope not. and for the people i called and never showed up, sorry but you might have missed the barrel of your life…
as for the waves today? it’s 7 am small everywhere. town is waist/chest high. north shore is 2-4′ and backdoor is looking good. if your going to vland today, don’t expect anything like yesterday. i’m burnt out but still going surfing!!! have a great day!!!
**remember when i told you the dog pulled into kewalo’s the other day looking for a bad guy? well, he made like everybody in the parking lot was bad. i’m still bummed out on the way he treated the local people of hawaii. the dog has no aloha spirit in him and if you seen him with the aloha spirit on tv, it’s fake. people with the aloha spirit don’t treat the people of hawaii like that. and if his excuse is that he made a mistake, he could have at least apologized. a simple sorry could have made all the difference. but no, no sorry, and no aloha from that guy. kazz sano took a video of the ending but if you seen the beginning like how i saw it, you would be pissed on how he ran out of his car and wanted to pick a fight with local boy travis. the dogs tv crew shot the whole thing and i’ll guarantee you will never see it. you will just see the parts that make him look good like always. that’s why i don’t like to watch tv anymore. too one sided…. anyway, check out the clip taken by kazz. and wanted to thank sam for sticking up for the boys…. aloha from kewalo’s….
